Viognier -- You fill up my senses

I love Viognier. It is second only to Sauvignon Blanc on my list of top ten favorite white wine grapes. Once an endangered wine grape species, the last decade has brought an explosion in plantings and production throughout the world. And yet, I seem to have a hard time finding a Viognier that satisfies my craving for this exotic, ambrosial, lushly aromatic Rhone grape. If I do find a good example that brings to the table all of the floral, spice, honey and ripe, sweet fruit components that this varietal can offer, I often fatigue from the intensity of it all after a glass or two, finding myself too satiated and overwhelmed by the wine to enjoy it with a meal.

The opposite end of the Viognier spectrum frequently presents me with a wine that is watered down and insipid -- so low in acid and so lacking in character that it barely deserves the name Viognier. In addition, this grape too often shows great bottle variation after the passing of just a month or two (or even a night in the 'fridge.) You definitely want to drink this one while it's young. Once the fruit dies away you're left with a flabby, overbearing, high alcohol mess.

The Viognier grape can be challenging to grow, requiring a cooler microclimate to really show its stuff and develop the intense and concentrated flavors and fragrances it bears. If the growing season is too cool, however, the grapes may not ripen fully. While the grape grows more easily in warmer climates, it does not always develop its signature flavors, aromatic complexity, full-bodied mouthfeel and lingering finish.

Now that all of the negatives are out of the way, it is safe to say that this full-bodied white varietal makes one of the most distinctive wines around today. It can offer the attractiveness of a big, complex Chardonnay with an alcohol level that is usually quite high (14% and above) combined with the fragrant spiciness and perceived sweetness of a Riesling or Gewürztraminer. The aromas are intensely floral with honeysuckle, jasmine, freesia, orange blossoms and gardenia abounding. The exotic fruits evoked include thick and delicious overlays of ripe and stewed apricot, peach and pear along with tropical fruits, sweet citrus, and a jazzy bit of spice and honey. Mineral notes rendered by the growing region are often in evidence as well as oak nuances if the wine has been fermented or aged in barrels. This wine will fill the palate and the senses with a finish that should linger on and on and on.

When it comes to choosing foods that will make a lovely consort to this alluring grape, the options are not as varied as for other white grapes. Because Viognier lacks the sharp and clean cutting power delivered by high fruit acid content, has a relatively high alcohol level for a white wine, and is so naturally opulent in its fragrance and sweet taste sensations, a bit of thought is required for the pairing possibilities. In general, this grape puts its best foot forward when paired with rich seafood and shellfish selections, risotto, chowders and lighter meats. It also does quite well with spicy stir-fry and curry dishes. It can be a fantastic compliment to pork and ham, especially if there is a bit of sweetness in the glaze and sauce. I love Viognier with the traditional Thanksgiving meal. Turkey tastes better with this wine, as do the stuffing and sweet potatoes. Other natural poultry pairings include stuffed and roasted Cornish game hens, chicken in cream sauce, or lightly sauteed breasts in olive oil or butter and herbs.

Should you become too anxious over the pairing with food issue, Viognier makes an awesome aperitif. Here are two of my recent favorites:

Smoking Loon California Viogner 2004 ($9)
A massive whiff of ripe banana and fresh apricot greet the nose supported by gentle spice notes of clover and cinnamon. The taste matches the nose perfectly: stewed, ripe apricot up front along with fresh peach, hints of tropical fruits and lingering spice flavors. A firm mineral backbone cuts some of the sweet fruit that hits the front of the palate. This wine offers some really interesting flavors for the money without being so intense that you'd suffer from palate fatigue too soon. Hefty alcohol levels at 13.5%. What a great summer wine to serve ice cold!

Yalumba South Australia Viognier 2005 ($11)
This one is much quieter on the nose when compared to the Smoking Loon. In the tasting a rush of apricot fruit comes forth but the majority of the wine's structure is citrus rind and mineral with some light pear on the aftertaste. The lively and sharp characteristics promise that it is a great food wine. The copious alcohol content (14.5%) is obvious on day two as that's all that's really left in the bottle insofar as flavor. Where the Smoking Loon was more round and full in my mouth, the Yaluma is sharp and lean.

Both Viognier offerings are very pleasing and great warm weather, value buys. Your choice will probably depend upon how much cash you have on hand to blow and perhaps the time of day and circumstances. I'd be inclined to enjoy Smoking Loon in the afternoon, on a picnic or at a party as an aperitif. The Yalumba would probably be the better choice for a more formal and rich meal.