Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Thinking outside of the pink box

Put down that box of Franzia White Zin and back away slowly.

I'm kidding. Sort of. I am not here to talk you out of your Franzia White Zinfandel. I happen to know two seemingly-normal men right here in Pagosa that will admit in their "out loud voices" that their wives are quite fond of boxed blush. No, I am here to help you explore a few new pink wines that are tremendous values and beautifully suited to Spring in Pagosa.

All three of my pink wine choices boast alcohol contents ranging from 12%-13% for those of you who, like me, value such information. I'm not a fan of low alcohol wines. I figure if I'm going to consume all those extra calories, I deserve the buzz right along with the fat. The amount of sugar fermented determines the wine's alcohol level and the amount of residual sugar the winemaker has allowed to remain in the juice contributes to the perceived sweetness. Three of my favorite "blush" or "rose" wines are discussed in progression from sweetest to most dry.

Beringer White Merlot 2004

My New York Wine Snob e-Friend hates that I admit to drinking this wine all Summer long in my out loud e-mail voice (wait 'till he sees it in print), but then again, he's never met me in person and has no clue that I will wear brown shoes with black tights and a navy sweater. Nor does he need to know that on my days off I apply no make-up and can be seen with a scrunchy holding my hair back wearing - gasp - white athletic socks over black leggings at the Post Office. Gives whole new meaning to "going postal" but in this town if you dare to descend upon the Town's Heartbeat between 10am and 2pm, you take your dignity in your hands. Dignity Schmignity. No matter how old I get, I can not imagine having to wear make-up to fetch the mail and tote the cat litter. Or apologize for loving this wine when the temperature gets above 55.

Yeah, it's sweet. But not sickly so. The choice of the Merlot grape over the Zinfandel seems to yield so much more depth and complexity. Blush wines are tinted their pastel hues by the quick removal of the grape skins from the juice after pressing. The juice that remains after the Merlot skins are yanked from the tank is an attractive shade of ruby watermelon.

Upon sniffing and swirling I usually find the most pleasing aromas of raspberries and gentle florals like rose and geranium. In the sipping it's all about strawberries, cherries, kiwi, guava and light citrus. I've been enjoying this immenently gulp-able and very refreshing White Merlot on hot Summer days since 1999 when Beringer first released their offering. The perfect picnic, barbecue, take-to-the-lake wine. It's a wine cooler without the carbonation. I buy this wine in the handy purse size 1.5 liter bottle for $12, give or take.

Little Penguin White Shiraz 2005

This is a new favorite in my rosé repertoire. A few months ago when I spotted the darling little penguin toddling across the hot pink label that read "White Shiraz" it just seemed so right in light of my affection for penguins and White Merlot. This product of South Eastern Australia falls midway between the slightly sweeter Beringer White Merlot and my final suggestion, offering the perfect balance between alcohol and sugar levels, fruits and acids. At the risk of sounding über-pretentious, along with the berry, cherry and zesty fruit flavors I also detect rose petals on the back of the palate and in the aftertaste. Or is that citrus peel? There is something very Vitamin C-ish about this wine and I feel safe in proclaiming that it surely prevents Scurvy. An incredible value for just a bit over $7 for the 750ml bottle. This is my Goldilocks wine -- just right.

Bonny Doon's Ca' del Solo Big House Pink 2004

Randall Grahm, founder of Bonny Doon Vineyard, Santa Cruz, CA, is, er, um, well..."unique". One should not attempt to enter the parallel universe in which he resides without donning protective headgear. Visit his web site if you need proof. One of the original California "Rhone Rangers", his prolific wine portfolio and all-around creative genius are forces to be reckoned with, and respected.

The Big House Pink is a blend of primarily Italian grape varieties: Carignano, Sangiovese, Barbera, Zinfandel and Charbono. It is fragrant and fresh with just a whisper of residual sugar. The lightest flavors of strawberries blend so elegantly with a dash of citrus zest and very light mineral nuances. As with the other two wines, serve this one very well-chilled as it will lose none of the complexity. And speaking of not apologizing, embrace the screwcap. Graham was one of the first California producers to do so, and as usual, he was a visionary. This is a most comforting, accessible and imminently sippable rosè in the $10 range (750ml).

When it comes to pairing wines with food, I pretty much drink what I feel like drinking and eat whatever is around. But I'm lazy and hate to cook. For those of you with more ambition and class, all three of my pink choices are wonderful partners for Asian dishes. I am especially fond of Kung Pao or Mu Shu Anything with White Merlot and White Shiraz. Think poultry and the other white meat (pork, of course) when choosing pink wines. Grilled chicken and poultry dishes in cream sauces pair nicely, ham is fab, and put a "note to self" on your calendar for November: "Thanksgiving Day Wine Ideas". Think Pink. You won't be disappointed.

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