The sensualists are sipping pinot noir

If you were to poll wine lovers and ask this one simple question: "What is the most food-friendly red wine produced in California today?", chances are the most frequent reply would be: "Pinot Noir." A lighter, fruitier, more acidic and less tannic red grape varietal, Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grapes to be cultivated. Its ancestral roots trace back to the rather small Burgundy region in France, the only growing region able to claim a history of consistent success with the grape until very recently. The last 25 years have found California winemakers and growers improving and refining their planting and growing methods, tweaking their winemaking techniques, and achieving their own impressive record of success.

Pinot Noir can be one of the most sexy, seductive, satisfying, graceful and elegant red wines produced. It is also the most fickle, temperamental and hardest to handle in every stage of its life, from vineyard to cellar. It is susceptible to damage from early spring frosts as it is one of the first grapes to undergo leafbreak, and it can ripen too early. It is easy prey for a multitude of viruses, rots and destructive insects and birds. Crops must be kept low to produce concentrated fruit, and it can be hard to ferment. Once bottled, most California Pinots reach their peak within 3 to 6 years of the vintage. This explains why it is also pretty expensive (for me: The Queen of the Single Digit Wine). It is rare to find a bargain Pinot, but they're out there. It just takes a lot of frog kissing along the way.

My favorite California regions for Pinot are the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County and the Carneros district, which spans parts of Napa and Sonoma. The other prime growing regions in the state include the Central Coast regions of Santa Maria Valley and Santa Barbara County and a few areas of Monterey County. (No accident that I have lived in Santa Barbara, Monterey and Napa. And Fresno. But I don't admit to that in print.) These appellations all share the required environment to nurture this sensitive grape: close proximity to the Pacific Ocean offering foggy and misty mornings, warm and sunny afternoons, and cool evenings. This keeps the fruit acidity high and the sugar levels low.

The complexity of the aromas alone can cause Pinot aficionados to swoon. The nose can offer up a medley of intense cherry, raspberry, strawberry, plum and currant. With luck the fruit-filled promise of the nose delivers in the mouth accompanied by pungent spices -- anise, cinnamon and peppermint. Other commonly found descriptors include cedar, tobacco, leather, chocolate, vanilla, fresh earth, mushroom, tomato, green tea and barnyard smells.

Good Pinot Noir offers the delicate and perfect balancing act for optimum food pairing. It contains just the right amount of enlivening acidity and satisfying sweetness, moderate alcohol levels (13.5% or less, ideally), low tannins, with a flavor and mouthfeel that should be soft, full, and smooth as velvet. Pinot is full-bodied and rich, yet delicate and sensual. Beguiling grape!

Pairing with Pinot:
Tracing the grape's roots back to its indigenous homeland, Burgundian cuisine has evolved to enhance the wine. A large array of meats perform quite well, along with all manner of wild mushrooms, nuts, mustards and other earthy foods. Think classics like Cassoulet, Coq au Vin, and Boeuf Bourginon. Pheasant, goose, duck, squab, turkey, Cornish game hen and roasted chicken dishes pair beautifully; likewise veal, lamb, ham, pork and liver dishes.

In the seafood arena nothing washes grilled salmon down better than Pinot. Appetizers like smoked salmon, sushi, rumaki, and fois gras will shine. The wine's rich subtleties blend beautifully with the earthiness of wild mushroom and eggplant dishes along with lighter pasta and quiche offerings. Gotta have my cheese: Swiss, Gruyere, a young Brie or a creamy Roquefort. Use a light hand when it comes to cooking spices in your dishes so as not to overwhelm the delicacy and subtle nuances of the grape.

Pinots to pick:
I've kissed a lot of really hideous Pinot frogs over the years, and yes, most of them were found in the lower price ranges. You really do need to expect to pay more than you would for your Shiraz, Merlot or red blend when shopping for this finicky seductress. Here are some winners that I have discovered over the years from reliable California producers who know their way around this persnickety grape:

Dr. David Bruce, a gentle and genteel soul, poured his ruby-colored offerings into my tipped glass under the hot and crowded tasting tent in the park at the 1997 Telluride Wine Festival. I liked his wine, I liked his dignified and understated labels, and I liked his dignified and understated personal style. Look for this respected and noteworthy producer who specializes in Pinots derived from several California coastal appellations, ranging from $20-$45 There's sure to be something for everybody in this extensive and diverse portfolio.

Rodney Strong, who passed away in March of this year, was a visionary pioneer -- one of the first to plant Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley. The estate vineyard bottling comes in around $19.

Mark West has a reasonably priced array of bottles to choose from, sourcing grapes from Russian River, Somona and Santa Barbara vineyards. Look for their Central Coast offering at under $10. One of the few value Pinots available.

Two more widely available choices in this category are Gallo of Sonoma ($13) and Clos du Bois Sonoma ($18 suggested retail but often found for much less.)

With a little smart shopping and some thoughtful swirling and sipping, you, too, can call yourself "a sensualist".